So eager were we to be on our way this morning, we were up early, packed up and pulling out of the caravan park by 8:50AM, a whole hour and 10 minutes earlier than we planned. As it would turn out, it was quite fortuitous that we did leave so early.

The drive to Port Augusta was uneventful, along an undulating road through country typical of the Australian outback, with the sun shining brightly and warmly down on us. It was a most beautiful morning for a drive. Upon reaching Port Augusta at the northern tip of the Spencer Gulf, our plan was to stop for a bit of a look around, before continuing south along the eastern most coast of the gulf. Along the way, we listened into the excited banter over the CB radio, as a couple of folks were exclaiming about finally reaching the ‘real’ outback. It was enough to turn us green with envy that their trip sounded like it was just getting underway, while ours is nearing its conclusion.

Like all good books, which feature an unexpected plot twist just when you least expect it, our story too, takes a turn here in Port Augusta, a wrong turn in fact. Bizarrely, as we reached the outskirts of town, we turned left rather than right as intended. It wasn’t until 550Km later that we realised the error of our ways, when we arrived in Coober Pedy!

Hmm, which way to go??? Left or right???

Actually it wasn’t quite as a result of a navigational error, but more to do with us reaching the Port Augusta city limits and seeing the sign for Coober Pedy, a crazy, quirky outback opal mining town that we have visited before and know that we much like. It was a mere 550Km or so up the track, in the complete opposite direction of where we were meant to be heading. The magnetism was strong though, the allure of one last outback fling and return to warmer climes energising.

The seed planted in our heads, especially with Bec pleadingly asking that we head north, a quick look at our plans and it was decided that we ought be able to make it up to Coober Pedy for a few days without causing too much of an issue with the remainder of our itinerary. A nip and a tuck here and there to the itinerary and before we knew it, we were fueling up and getting ready for a quick detour north.

The new plan called for us to camp alongside the road in one of the many rest areas between Port Augusta and Coober Pedy tonight, before arriving early tomorrow afternoon. We’ll spend a few days living our dreams of striking it rich on the opal fields, before turning around and heading for Adelaide like originally planned. If nothing else, Coober Pedy sounds somewhat more distant from home than does Adelaide.

So, it was settled and by 10:30AM, only ½ an hour after we had planned to be leaving Whyalla, we were saying goodbye to Port Augusta, grinning like Cheshire Cats, on our 1000Km round trip detour north.

Along the way, we took a little side trip to the strange little town of Woomera. Bec was distinctly unimpressed with this idea, but I feel a strange affinity with the place and I wanted to see if it was as I remembered it. The last time we toured through here, it felt like a ghost town. Given its history as a defense force town at which rocket and missile testing took place, one could have been forgiven for thinking that a tragic biological or atomic accident had taken place, wiping out any signs of life.

I was thankful to see that nothing seems to have changed. Driving around town, the neatly laid out streets are lined with identical little houses and blocks of units, an obvious throwback to its military heritage. Washing hung stagnantly from back yard lines, while cars were parked up driveways. But there was little sign of life, apart from the few tourists milling about, looking at the displays in the ‘Rocket Park’. There was not even a flutter here and there of a curtain, which you might expect of a nosey resident hearing a strange vehicle rumbling down the street. It was as if everyone had just up and left, and done it in an extreme hurry. It really is a spooky little place, which I find utterly intriguing.

A selection…

…of the sights…

…in the…

…rocket park.

As glad as I was to return, I was glad to be moving on again, as it is not exactly the most bustling place. I must add though, that both times we have been now, have been on a Sunday. I can’t imagine it being any more welcoming during the week though.

Not much to see.

From Woomera, we made a non-stop run through to a little siding, about 170Km south of Coober Pedy, where we set up camp, along with a few other vans. There’s even a young couple propped here in a tent, who are three weeks into a 12 month long cycling tour around Australia. I enjoy cycling, but even to me that sounds like too much!

Arriving here as we did at about 3:00PM, there were still plenty of sunlight hours left to waste, as we sweltered in the heat, swatting constantly at flies while questioning our decision to head inland again. Bec tried her best to keep her and the dogs cool with a spray bottle full of water, while I set about trying to repair the little fan we had bought in Darwin and which had decided to give up the ghost this afternoon. Thankfully with a little ingenuity, a touch of luck and a piece of Gaffa tape, I managed to get the blades spinning again, providing some small relief from the heat. It made no difference to the little flies that seem to be following our every move though. They swarmed thickly around us the second we stepped foot outside, caring not for the regular swishing of our arms or the chemical odour of fly spray.

The only (and surprisingly very common) way to stop the flies.

By 9:00PM as the heat finally withdrew into the clear night sky, we were left to marvel at the fire orange orb of the rising moon and the brightly sparkling stars as we congratulated ourselves on our snap decision to eke out the most of our odyssey by turning left rather than right at Port Augusta.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.