Argh, that dammed alarm clock! It was shrieking in my ear at 7:00AM, to give us the best chance of seeing as much of Kakadu as we can today. Sadly, I missed the sunrise by only a few minutes, as I sat outside to eat my breakfast. I left Bec to sleep for a little longer, as she had decided that an extra 15 minutes of beauty sleep outweighed early morning nourishment.
On getting her up, it was all hands on deck to get ‘The Beast’ packed for a day out, before taking the dogs for a couple of tiring laps of the caravan park grounds. They will of course be remaining here, locked safely in the van. We figure if we wear them out before we leave, there is less chance of them taking it upon themselves to redecorate for us while we’re out.
Almost ready to go, we bumped into ‘Woody’, one of the guys who works here. A rough looking fellow, you couldn’t meet a nicer bloke. He tends the grounds here, and despite the dust, takes great pride in doing what he can to not only make the park nicer for the guests, but takes an interest in making sure that the few guests that are here are happy. Even to the extent of emptying the rubbish bins by hand, rather than using the motorised cart, because he doesn’t want to wake anyone up early when they are on holidays. Staff at some of the bigger places could learn a lesson or two from this guy. We ended up spending a good 15 minutes chatting to him, before we decided we really ought to be on our way.
Kakadu is known to Darwinians colloquially as Kakadon’t, because Litchfield National Park is closer to home, and is meant to be a nicer park. Well, having been to Litchfield previously, we get to find out for ourselves today.
Kakadu National Park is huge, and we don’t even hope to be able to see all there is to see in our limited time here. To do so would take weeks, if not months of careful exploration. Thus, after the obligatory happy snap by the entrance gate, we made our way to the main information and interpretive centre.
Even this was over an hour and a half drive through the park, at a steady 110Km/h. Making our way through the park to the information centre, there was not a great deal to be seen from the main road. A few wide creeks, still flowing from the wet season rains, you could see why the crocodile warning signs were so prevalent.
At the Bowali Information Centre, we gathered an armful of information, as well as spoke to one of the very knowledgeable rangers, who helped fill us in on where the best spots to go were. A quick look through the interpretive display, which gave us a small glimpse at the life of the local aboriginal tribes, and we were on our way. There would be just enough time to reach the starting point for a cultural cruise along the East Alligator River, in the north eastern section of the park, another 45 minutes away.
Heading back to the car park, I found a couple of blokes admiring ‘The Beast’. Before we knew it, we had spent nearly a quarter of an hour talking to them, and the time to reach the boat ramp for the cultural cruise was slipping away.
It was as if we just weren’t destined to make it in time, as I first took a wrong turn, which caused another delay, and then got stuck behind a campervan that decided the 74Km/h was a considerate pace to travel at in a 110Km/h speed zone.
It was 11:04AM, when we rolled to a harried stop at the boat ramp car park, to find that the boat had left right on time at 11:00AM. We had literally, missed the boat. I was most disappointed at this, but there was nothing we could do, so we continued on our way (sulking only a little bit).
We called in briefly then at Cahills Crossing, which is the ford over the river to Arnhemland. Permits are required to travel past this point, as Arnhemland is managed by the local Aboriginal tribes, and is considered to be very sacred to their culture. We didn’t cross the river, but continued further north to Ubirr, which is an area known for its magnificent Aboriginal rock art.
From the car park here, it was about a 1Km walk along a hot, but thankfully shaded trail, leading to the rock art galleries. The drawings found here are believed to be between 5000 and 6000 years old. To be honest, rock art is not really my thing. The previous examples I have seen, are usually no more than scribbles, seemingly interpreted as what ever you wanted. Here though, the art work is clear and well defined. Whilst we might not be privy to the true meaning behind the drawings, the subject matter is clear enough to decipher.
The highlight of the area however, was the steep climb up the rock escarpment, from the pinnacle of which afforded us 360o views of the surrounding landscape. In one direction, for as far as the eye could see was scrubby bush land, with further escarpments poking through the forest canopy. Peering in the other direction, a low, flat wasteland of flood plain spread out beneath us, into Arnhemland territory. The view was utterly spectacular. A view that neither words nor pictures could do justice to.
A young Aboriginal ranger, who was at the summit, explained to us that there were two tribes in the area, and that Kakadu was jointly managed by them and the settlers. The area where we were now standing had been the site of secret mens business, but no more, because of the tourists.
Moving on again, we made our way back to the township of Jabiru. A modern town nestled within the National Park, we were able to get lunch, a copy of the daily paper (only to find that Queensland had lost the rugby last night, so I’m glad I didn’t get to see it afterall), and a phone signal. That gave us a chance to check in with the folks back home, and let them know that all is well. We also got to drive around the aptly named Crocodile Holiday Inn, a hotel formed in the shape of a giant croc, I remembered it fondly from Northern Territory tourism adverts from when I was a kid. And who says advertising doesn’t work.
Time had escaped us by this stage though, so we hit the road for the long drive back to the caravan. It was to be another hour and a half on the road before we would get back to our camp. It was almost 3:30PM when we did finally arrive ‘home’, or a little over 7 hours and 400Km since we had left this morning. All that time, and apart from rushing out of the van to relieve themselves, the dogs couldn’t have cared less. Sure, they seemed excited that we had come back for them, but it looked as if they’d done nothing more strenuous than sleep all day.
Getting back, we also found that the park was almost full tonight. With only a dozen or so powered sites, that doesn’t take much, but they were all pretty much in use. We must have looked like old hands however, our van skewed haphazardly over two sites, and strutting about without a care, for a few people came to ask us for advice on where to set up, or where to find things.
Mind you, there was one thing we were after advice on, and that was if the park had a dump spot for our toilet waste. On asking the backpacker manning the reception desk, the answer was in the negative. Although as the door was slowly closing behind us, we did hear the young backpacker call out to someone in the kitchen: “Have we got a dump point?”
We found ‘Woody’ later on, and he knows his stuff. It was a definitive “no, but they should have one…” to the dump spot question. We then lost another 20 minutes nattering away about our day to him.
Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.
















