Day 146: Much Arbor On The Nullarbor.

Posted on September 8, 2013 by Marcus

It had been a very good idea to park up yesterday when we did, I had decided already last night. It especially felt like the right decision, when we woke this morning, with the heater pumping the van full of warm air, to ward off the extreme chill of the morning. Not that we were up all that early. It was already 9:30AM by the time we rolled out of bed, to find that the caravan park that had been filled to capacity overnight was deserted and devoid of any other campers save for ourselves. I am guessing that many of them would have been running behind schedule, having been forced to spend the night here so had left early to make up for lost time. We however were just as happy to tootle along today at our own speed. Yes, the delay might have seen us postpone the beginning of our grand Nullarbor crossing by a day, but we’re in no rush.

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Bustling metropolis one day, deserted the next.

So as we rolled out of the caravan park at almost 10:30AM, we settled into ‘The Beast’ to do what we had started yesterday. That is, we headed into the township of Norseman to collect information and fuel for our journey. At the information centre in Norseman, a few highlights were helpfully marked on a map for us before we were sent on our way by the jolly fellow behind the counter with a cheery: “Just take your time and enjoy it.” We then stopped briefly to photograph what is advertised as the top tourist draw card in town, a series of camels fashioned out of corrugated iron that stand sentinel amongst the trees of the main roundabout in the middle of town. It really is a happening place, especially on a Sunday morning.

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Tourist attraction, Norseman style.

Fuel for ‘The Beast’ was next, where we thought we were getting a bargain, until we realised that the price advertised on the price board out front was a good few cents cheaper than that indicated at the pump. A good ploy to get customers we thought, judging by the number of cars lined up waiting for a bowser to become available. At least it was still a lot less than the more than $2.00 or more per litre we have been warned to expect during our crossing of the Nullarbor.

It was 12:05PM exactly, when we turned right to travel east on the Eyre Highway and across the Nullarbor Plains. The name derives from the two Latin words, ‘nullus’ and ‘arbor’ so literally translates as ‘no trees’. The first hundred and fifty kilometres east we drove today though, the name may as well have been ‘mucharbor’ as the surrounds were densely treed for the most part. We still have a distance to travel though before we reach the true start of the treeless plain. That will come tomorrow with any luck. So much for our grand introduction to the Nullarbor though!

For todays efforts we pulled off the road relatively early, to take advantage of a nice looking campsite we had found. We were off the road by a bit after 2:00PM, driving a couple of hundred metres through the surrounding scrub to ensure we were well and truly hidden from the road. The main reasoning we had behind locating ourselves as such was so that we had a clear line of sight to aim the satellite dish, unhampered by the thick canopy of foliage above us and we would also be well removed from any other campers so that running the generator wouldn’t annoy anyone. Not that there was anyone else around.

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Setting up ‘The Dish’. Bring on the TV.

With the van quickly parked and the dish set up to drag moving pictures from somewhere in outer space, before displaying them magically on our TV screen, we locked the dogs in ‘The Beast’ so we could take a wander amongst the wildflower rich undergrowth surrounding our plot.

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Just a couple of…

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…the wildflowers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we worked our way on foot back towards the main road, we found another van parked in the area alongside the road. The couple to which it belonged were pouring over a camps guide, obviously debating the merits of staying here as opposed to moving on. We said G’day to them and struck up a conversation. As it turns out, they haven’t free camped before, and were more concerned about being out here all on their own than anything else. We pointed out where we were propped, and said that we were happy for them to camp alongside if they wanted, as long as the gentle hum of the generator wouldn’t annoy them. They still didn’t seem too sure, at least not until mention was made that we had the satellite all set up and that ‘X-Factor’ would be screening this evening. That settled it, they were staying put, if for nothing else than to join us for a spot of tele this evening.

And that there then is the story of how we came to met Sue and Eddie from Perth. They’re a great fun couple, a few more years advanced than we are, but with similar ideas about life. We spent a good deal of the afternoon chatting with them about our respective travels, past, present and future, before going our separate ways for dinner.

It was just after 6:30PM when there was a light tap on the door, and there they were, all ready to join us in the van for some light entertainment and some more enthusiastic conversation. It was fantastic to have the company for a change as we swapped tall stories of our travels. I could happily recite our tales of adventure, without getting the usual scowl or blank stare of boredom from Bec that indicates she has heard it all before and I am sure that Sue and Eddie did the same, although their travels both here in Australia and overseas have been extensive and their tales were equally enchanting.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.

Posted in Everything, The Epic Journey, The Nullarbor Trek | 2 Comments

Day 145: Nulla Nullabor Today.

Posted on September 7, 2013 by Marcus

The noise of rain tumbling down onto the tin roof of the van was deafening this morning. An ominous beginning to our day we might have guessed. In the murky grey early morning light, water dripping from the folds of my waterproof jacket and pants, I set about the dreary task of packing the caravan up, ready to depart.

There were the usual tasks to be completed, inside and out, before we could get underway, although we made good time this morning, pulling out of our site a full ten minutes earlier than we had planned for. Due to the constricted access about the park, we quickly used that extra ten minutes just extricating the van from the site and negotiating our way out of the dog legged driveway.

It was then only a couple of minutes down the road that we were making our first stop of the morning, to make use of the conveniently located black water dump spot. With a quick last look about the van to ensure we were ready, we did then hit the road proper, sluicing through road engulfing puddles while the wipers wove a hypnotic path across the windshield as they struggled to clear the swathes of pebble sized water droplets that were bouncing furiously against the glass. In short, it was a miserable morning of the highest degree.

Pressing on through the deluge, we headed in a northerly direction towards Norseman. Norseman is the gateway to the great Nullarbor Plains and it was here that we were planning to stop for fuel, lunch and information to assist us in our crossing. We have talked about crossing the Nallarbor for a good many years, and today would mark the beginning of our long held dreams.

Having driven this same route south from Kalgoorlie the other day, there was little of interest along the way that we hadn’t already seen, although as we neared the tiny little town of Salmon Gums, I was contemplating making a quick stop. It was here that we had stopped on the way down to Esperance for a toilet break, and I was considering making the same stop again. With this in mind, and already slowing down as we came to the town limits, we rounded the final bend, only to be confronted with a long line of stationary cars, caravans and trucks, stretching along the tarmac for as far as the eye could see. It was only 11:30AM.

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Well that’s not good.

With hazard lights flashing, car doors left ajar and plenty of folk milling about on the side of the road in the drizzle, I knew that there was something seriously amiss. There was no vehicular movement, as we sat up high in the cabin of ‘The Beast’ looking over the cars ahead of us. We soon learned, through the powers of a very sketchy Internet signal that the sirens we had heard buzzing hurriedly through Esperance last night must have been making their way out to a spot on the road between Salmon Gums and Norseman, where a car had left the road with tragic consequences. The road was still closed now, but there was no information forthcoming as to how long the closure would remain in place.

So like everyone else, we sat and waited. What else were we to do? There was nowhere to go. No way around. A quick look at our maps had borne out that idea. So, that was it, we sat and waited. After the first 15 minutes, Bec started to get fidgety. By 30 minutes into our ordeal, she was getting seriously fidgety, making it difficult for me to focus quietly on my book. An hour in and she was almost ready to walk the rest of the way to Norseman. It was at the hour mark that a ute resplendent with strobing orange lights slowly made its way along the line of stationary vehicles, the driver stopping alongside each one. The information he gave us wasn’t great. The road was expected to be closed until well after 4:00PM, still another 3 ½ hours away at least.

My initial reaction was to sit and wait until the road reopened, then drive for another hour or so until dark. That idea was quickly shot down by Bec, so I suggested pulling to the side of the road and spending the night. We had after all planned on free camping anyway. I struck out too on that plan, when Bec suggested checking out the caravan park in town. From where we were, she reckoned, we ought to be able to slip down a back street or two to enable us to reach the park.

I wasn’t terribly pleased with this idea, imagining a quagmire of a park, already filled to capacity with people all thinking along the same lines. Bec persisted however, even to the point of jumping out, to run down the street to find out where the park might be found.

Down a dirt road, which had fortunately weathered the torrential downpour better than I could have expected, we located what could only very loosely be termed a caravan park. More of a siding really, there were already a dozen vans neatly lined up, each sidled up to and plugged into one of the several power posts that were spread along the area. A fire pit and small toilet block to which an honesty box was secured completed the picture. There were no fences, no offices, apparently no rules and no choices of sites, as we quickly backed into one of the last two remaining. It was but 12:45PM and our day was done. Far from attaining the three or four hundred kilometres we had planned for, we had travelled a paltry 100Km for the day. At least, for the meager price of $15.00 slipped into an envelope and dispersed into the hopefully secure moneybox at the toilet block, we have access to power, water, toilets and showers for the night, so we could fire up the heater and relax for the remainder of the afternoon and evening in front of the TV. With the comfort of the heater producing a tropical strength warmth within the van, I also quickly warmed to Becs insistence that we pull into the park, rather than brave the dark and chilly roadside.

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Bugger the Coke, just give me the Bundy.

As it turns out, it wasn’t until 6:00PM that word went out over the CB radio, to the whooping cheers of truck drivers and stranded travellers alike, that the road had been re-opened. It was already dark by then, so even if we hadn’t been snugly cozied up, probably too inebriated to drive in any case, we were staying put for the night. We can make a renewed assault at a start on the Nullarbor tomorrow.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.

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Day 144: A Quite Day For All.

Posted on September 6, 2013 by Marcus

I’ll be keeping it short and sweet today. Having seen all that Esperance has to offer yesterday, and feeling a need to keep Bethany quiet, we decided to do as little as possible today, so there is very little to report. We didn’t even take the camera out of its case, so don’t go looking for any pictures to put to my words, there is none.

Thankfully Bethany was at least walking on her sore leg this morning, so we don’t think there is any serious damage, but a day of lazing around is still called for. I don’t think there were any complaints, from any of us, when that plan was mooted.

We did still have to head out this morning though, for Bec to be able to take advantage of her two for one massage deal. I dropped her off promptly at 10:00AM, before going in search of a café at which to get a coffee. I soon found myself at the McDonalds, ordering a supersized mug of java, which I enjoyed while sitting in ‘The Beast’ with the dogs, checking my emails. Sadly, I was jolted out of my reverie and reminded of our imminent return home by an email from a work colleague.

After collecting a suitably relaxed Bec, we headed back to the van to work on a shopping plan for this afternoon. We’re in the habit of ducking into the supermarket on a daily basis, buying just enough groceries to last us for the day. We are however, slated to be leaving Esperance tomorrow morning, embarking on the lengthy journey across the Nullarbor Plain. With nothing much more than small general stores littered along the nearly 1500KM stretch between here and the next major town of Ceduna in South Australia, we need to stock the fridge and pantry with enough supplies to see us through multiple days of constant travel. We are estimating that it will take us either 5 or 6 days to complete the crossing, staying mostly at camp areas along the way.

It was well into the afternoon before we ventured out again, armed with a long list of items that needed to be procured on our shopping tour. Walking through the car park to the supermarket, Bec may have ruined any therapeutic effects this mornings massage had on her however, when she nearly snapped her back pouncing on a fluttering $5.00 note that was wafting along the sidewalk. Half expecting someone to swoop from behind, claiming the money as their own, she quickly handed it on to me, leaving me holding the hot potato as she rapidly sidled off. There was no one to claim it though, so it was deftly slid into my wallet as we continued to the shops. There’s very little detail that I can add to make the story anymore interesting, suffice to say we then trawled up and down the supermarket aisles, loading up our trolley with all of the necessary provisions as well as a couple of little extras for our onward journey.

A stack of groceries rolling about in the back, we gave ‘The Beast’ a sip of diesel, before heading back to the caravan park to relax for the remainder of the day. Thankfully, there wasn’t much left in Esperance that we hadn’t already seen, so we didn’t miss out on too much by spending the day cocooned for the most part in the van.
I used the rest of the day to plan our travels across the Nullarbor, picking out a series of camp sites that we might be able to take advantage of, while Bec kicked back watching TV all afternoon. This went on until such time as we found ourselves getting rather hungry. Even with a fridge full of groceries from the supermarket this afternoon, we had nothing out for dinner tonight, nor did we have any contemplation of cooking for ourselves anyway. It’s rather quite tiring this whole business of doing nothing.

So we plugged an address for a fish and chip shop into Shazza, and headed out the door for a bang up meal of greasy fries. Shazza had barely got her bearings and was taking us to some out of the way shop on the other side of town when what should I see across the road? The typical gaudily lit interior of a fish and chip shop. Spotting a few cars parked outside and a few customers milling about inside, we figured it couldn’t be too bad, so pulled in to get our own dinner. As it turned out, it wasn’t too bad, but could have been better, with our aim of getting a feed of greasy fish and chips well and truly satisfied. I can still taste the slimy grease on my lips now.

That then, was our very ordinary, unexciting day. Before I go though, don’t forget, we are looking at being on the road, crossing the Nullarbor for up to the next week. I would imagine that phone and Internet access will be patchy to say the least, so it might well be this time next week that you next hear from us. In the mean time, keep the kilometre challenge entries rolling in and the messages of good will coming, because we will endeavor to catch up with them all when we are back in the land of reliable wireless communications.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.

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Day 143: Road To Paradise.

Posted on September 5, 2013 by Marcus

After what feels like weeks on end of waking up to the call of the alarm, we decided today to leave the alarm off, switch the phones to silent and ignore the pawing of the dogs, to enjoy a sleep in. The only hiccup to our lie in was at a way too early hour to be awake, when the couple in the van across the road had issues lining their truck up to get it mated to their van and ended up screaming at each other. I didn’t hear it, but if I had of, I would have kindly lent them our little radios so that we could at least listen in a little easier. From then, it wasn’t until almost 11:00AM that our body clocks decided that it was time to face the world.

We had been able to fit a lazy morning into our schedule, as we didn’t have a great deal planned for the day. The only thing we intended to do was follow the tourist drive that was set out in ‘the book’ we had been given at the information centre the other day. The 40Km loop is designed to take in some of the natural wonders of the region including a not so pink, Pink Lake, a number of marvelous beaches and look outs for postcard perfect vistas, as well as a close up look at the power generating wind turbines.

The first stop on the trip was the low bluff overlooking Pink Lake. While a sign at the lookout describes the organic activity that leads to the pink tinge to the water, the lake took on a decidedly bleak gray appearance for our visit today. Our brochure had kindly warned us that the lake was unlikely to be tinged with pink though, so we couldn’t complain. Continuing along the route mapped out in our brochure, we next came to a sensational beach at 10 Mile Lagoon.

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Better hurry, Bec’s gone that way!

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…but great for photos.

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Not much for swimming…

 

 

 

 

 

 

A steep descent down a stairway fashioned from old car tyres filled with dirt led down to the narrow stretch of shore upon which glassy water was breaking forcefully, a foamy white layer of suds coating the wetted sand. Again, the temperature was too low to be able to fully enjoy the beach, so we whiled away a few minutes taking photographs, before struggling back up to the distant car park to continue on our way.

The next point of note on the map was the wind farm. Spread across two wind farms, there are 15 turbines that supplement Esperances energy usage. We were able to get up close and personal to one of these towers, in the walk up to the nearby lookout. Walking around the base, I was amazed at the size of the unit when seen from such an oblique angle. The lookout provided us with far reaching views, both out to sea and back across the field of giant white propellers, all standing proud, facing into the wind, the blades spinning slowly, but powerfully.

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Standing tall, a power generating wind turbine seen from ground level.

Our next break was at the Observatory Beach, where we were greeted with lengthy flight of timber steps leading down to what looked like a perfect beach. Had the weather been more conducive to swimming, we may have made the effort to clamber down, but on this occasion decided against it.

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It may as well have been from here to eternity. The reason we didn’t sink our toes into the sand of Observatory Beach.

Instead, we motored onward, stopping at a lookout next, where we found yet another stretch of stairs to climb to reach the knoll on which the lookout platform was constructed. We did make the effort to climb these and with expansive 180o  views, it was well worth the exertion. To one side of us, powerful waves were crashing against a rock strewn shore, while on the other, similar waves were cascading across a horseshoe of glittering sand.

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Bec makes it to the peak.

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While I slowly bring up the rear.

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The beaches spread out below.

 

Twilight Beach was the next beach at which we were destined to stop. This is the beach that won the title of Australias best beach. Sure, it was way back in 2006 when the title was taken out, but things don’t seem to have changed much. It is indeed alluring, with acres of talcum powder like white sand leading down to vivid aqua water. We wandered along the beach, imagining what it would be like if only it was warm enough to dip our toes in the chilly water.

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The calm waters of Twilight Beach.

The final stop on our tourist drive was a further lookout, this one closer to town. The Rotary Lookout is atop a raised dais allowing scenic vistas of the town spread out below us as well as further ocean views. That marked the completion of the defined drive along which we really did get to see Esperance and surrounds in the best possible light. Our day wasn’t done yet though, as all this peering at beaches had me intent on getting my feet wet, so we took a quick detour past the van to get changed before heading back to the town beach.

Far from spectacular as the other beaches we had been privy to, it at least allowed us to get the dogs out for a saunter down the sand. Both of them were ready to run, although the fun almost ended in tears as Bethany pulled up short with a sore leg after a particularly energetic gallop. If it’s going to happen, it’s always going to happen to her. She just doesn’t know when to stop, although we knew it was painful for her when she started to limp heavily on it. I ended up carrying her back to the comfort of ‘The Beast’. She might be small, but gee she’s heavy when you’ve got to man handle her over a few hundred metres of silky soft sand.

With Bethany back in ‘The Beast’ that pretty much spelt the end of our day as we collected groceries with which to prepare dinner, before heading back to the van where we’ve tried as best we can to keep Bethany from bouncing around on her sore leg. Poor bugger, if she’s not suffering a stomach upset, she’s nursing a tender leg.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.

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Day 142: The Price Of Comfort.

Posted on September 4, 2013 by Marcus

For us, the screeching of the alarm at 8:00AM was a most definitely unwelcome beginning to the day. The purpose of our early morning wake up call this morning was on the other hand very much welcome. Well, at least we hoped it would be, as we had our fingers crossed that the technician who was due at 8:30AM to have a look at our heater would actually be able to rectify the fault.

Our savior arrived promptly at the allotted time, and quickly confirmed our diagnosis. The unit was assuredly not working. Well, that much we were able to figure out for ourselves, so I was then eager to find if our mullet haired dude would actually be able to competently analyse the precise origin of the problem and subsequently repair it.

Leaving us sitting inside, shivering in the cool of the morning that was frigidly assaulting the interior of the van, the technician propped his ladder against the side of the van and commenced working his magic. To the untrained ear, his banging, thumping and odd habit of talking to himself left us apprehensive. He was soon back however, explaining that a copper pipe had split, causing a complete loss of coolant. A not uncommon problem, he explained, that should be relatively simple to rectify, just as soon as he went back to the shop to collect the necessary equipment.

Given this information, that the problem was as a result of a broken piece of pipe, was disappointing. I have no doubt it was caused from the vibrations we encountered on the road to Kalgoorlie the other day, but we are talking about an air conditioning unit which has specifically been designed for caravan and motor home applications. I would expect that such a unit ought to be designed with constant vibration in mind, but obviously not.

By 10:00AM though, after a lot more thumping around and one sided conversation, the order was given to flick the switch inside, to crank the unit into life. A mere few seconds later, a blissfully warm stream of air was being pumped through the vents and circulating throughout the van. The warmth might not feel so blissful later, when I go to the factory to pay for the repairs however. The technician couldn’t give us a firm figure on the spot as to how much it was going to set us back, but alluded to the fact that it wasn’t going to be cheap.

To make the most of our new found warmth, we boosted the thermostat to the max. Of course, we nearly roasted ourselves, but after almost a week of going without the heater, we were just jubilant to have everything back in working order, and were happy to sit within the sauna like confines of the van to enjoy it.

It was after 11:00AM by the time we decided we needed to get out of the van to cool off somewhat. So we headed into town for a look around the shops in the main street. That didn’t take too long, and we were soon struggling to find things with which to keep us busy, while we wasted time as we waited for 2:00PM to roll around, when Bec had an appointment for a relaxing massage. Natty as she is, she had spotted a coupon in the information centre yesterday for a two for one deal. So she is booked in for this afternoon and Friday morning now to make the most of our time here.

After stalking the stores fronting the main street for long enough, we took up prime position in the soft leather wingback arm chairs in the window of a café where we could enjoy a lengthy lunch and the constant parade of people wandering by, before taking a calorie busting stroll along the foreshore with the dogs.

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The pooches eye off the beautiful looking beach.

Still a few minutes early for her 2:00PM appointment, I dropped Bec off, while I went to get the bad news about the air conditioner, as I headed to the factory to pay the bill. As it turns out, $300.00 is the price of comfort and I put it on plastic, so it’s not like it’s real money anyway! Imagine how many blankets we could have bought for $300.00 though? It could have been a lot worse however, as had the break been in a slightly different location, we might have been looking for an entirely new unit at close to $2000.00. If that were the case, it would have been blankets all round for sure.

For the remainder of the time that Bec was getting pummeled and twisted like an origami swan, I went to check out the local museum. I was most excited about this, as they advertise as having the largest and most comprehensive Skylab display in the world. While I don’t remember the occasion, due to my modest age, Skylab came crashing to Earth back in 1979, the debris being spread over an expansive tract of Western Australia between Esperance and Balladonia.

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Skylab display at the museum.

I can’t substantiate the claims made about the Skylab display, but it was indeed interesting. As well as a series of news articles and keepsakes from the day, there were several chunks of metal, which may or may not have really come from the space going craft. I have no doubt that they were all authentic, but can’t fathom how all the little bits of otherwise indiscernible rubbish were located after being spread across the outback. It would also stand to reason that there would still be bits of space station out there, waiting to be found.

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Model of the Skylab and salvaged bits of the craft.

Along with the Skylab, the museum had innumerable other artifacts ranged across a vast array of subjects, but generally relating in some way to the local Esperance history. Many of the displays contained items that might not have been of museum quality, but had obviously been donated by local families, which was a nice touch, although it did lead to a crammed, haphazard feel to the tin shed gallery.

I collected a very tranquil Bec next, before making our next stop at an art gallery, which also boasted a craft shop and lookout. None were overly exciting, although the views from the lookout were pleasant. Seeing what the shoreline was like today, not darkened by clouds as it was yesterday, gave us a better appreciation for the quality of the surrounding beaches. With stark white sand reaching down to the turquoise water, it was only the icy cold wind that stopped us stripping to our togs and taking a dip.

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The enticing view from the lookout.

Our final stop for the afternoon was at one of only nine fish leather tanneries in the world. Aptly named ‘Mermaid Leather’ we were given the grand tour by one of the owners, before sitting down in an ad-hoc theatrette to view a video about the tanning process. Far from what you would expect, the resulting leather is soft and strong, with a fantastic patina. Naturally, it also comes with a not so fantastic price, although we did pick up a few samples and off cuts to bring home to show everyone.

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An unusual piece, a fish leather teddy bear.

Back at the van, we were relieved to find that the heater had sustained a loving warmth in the van all day and was still going strong. As the sun sank, with a corresponding dip in the outside temperature, $300.00 was sounding like the best money we’ve ever spent.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.

Posted in Everything, The Epic Journey | 2 Comments