Ahhhh, what a relief it was this morning. No fireworks waking us in the middle of the night, no unruly knocking on our door first thing in the morning to wake us up, just the screeching noise of a thousand Cockatoos screaming over head. We are obviously not destined to get a sleep in, try as we might. At least as the cockies completed their spiraling circuit of the camp area, we were able to roll back over, pull our pillows over our heads to avert the bright sunlight from our optic organs, then try for a much needed few extra minutes of sleep.

It seemed to work, because one instant, it was 7:00AM, and then the next it was 8:30AM, and I was again waking up, this time to an alarm I had at least set for myself. By this time, the sun was already streaming harshly against the side of the van, light sneaking brightly past the curtains, and through the open roof vents. It was time to get going, before the heat of the day hit with full force.

It was right on 9:00AM that we snuck out of the campground and rolled onto the open road again. Halls Creek, here we come. It was only about five minutes later that we were pulling to a stop on the roadside verge. I had forgotten to turn the gas off, and not wanting to be towing a caravan sized blow torch, thought it prudent to make the effort to set things right. Let’s try that again then, Halls Creek, here we come. Off we went again, pulling back out onto the road and getting back up to speed, only to have to pull in yet again, a few more minutes down the road, after I noticed in my rear view mirror that one of the caravan windows was flapping ominously in the breeze. Thankfully, no harm done, but we had obviously rushed through our checklist this morning. Okay, once more now, Halls Creek, here we come.

Halls Creek, here we come.

As we motored along the highway, the colours of the surrounding landscape appeared muted today, washed out pastel watercolour tones, rather than the vivid oil emulsion hues we’ve been experiencing. The red dirt returned though as we thundered into Halls Creek, scooting through town to the caravan park. Mercifully, our day on the road was over almost before it began, churning through the final 100KM to the outback town of Halls Creek.

Hardly a metropolis. The main street of Halls Creek.

There is but one lonely caravan park in Halls Creek, which doesn’t accept bookings. Hence our determined early arrival, with fingers crossed that a site will be sitting vacantly for us. The signs weren’t good as we neared the entrance, to see half a dozen vans lining up along the side of the road. I pulled in behind the last rig, and decided to take a wander down the road to the park office to enquire as to our chances. If a site wasn’t to be had, I would rather just get back on the road and continue on our way rather than sit on the side of the road in the full sun, going no where.

As it turned out, sites were plentiful, while even the staff were bemused at the lengthy line of vans on the street. As the helpful girl behind the counter checked us in, she mentioned that there was a refundable bond required due to the dogs. As the words spilled from her mouth, it was one of those moments in life when the imaginary light bulb flashes above your head. In my moment of conjectured halogen lamp lit clarity, I remembered that the van park in Kununurra had also asked of us to provide them with a dog bond. The crisp $20.00 note that we had handed over on that occasion was now, at this very minute, still sitting securely in their till, nearly 400KM away, and no doubt soon to be transferred to the old dented and buckled coffee tin, with the faded handwritten label declaring: ‘staff Christmas party fund’. Doh.

As we drove through the gates into the Halls Creek Caravan Park, we were confronted with a mostly vacant dust bowl. Water is scarce in these parts, so a lush green lawn I knew was out of the question, but there was hardly a blade of grass to be seen, while shade was an also non-existent luxury, brought about by a distinct lack of trees in the immediate vicinity of any of the remaining available sites. If this all sounds like I’m grumbling about the grounds, I’m not. I’m just stating the facts, for we actually attested that it is a more than suitable place to lay up the van for a few days. On the positive side of the ledger for instance, van parking is on level concrete strips, with a dust minimising concrete annex pad to each site, there’s an inviting looking, but extremely cold pool, while the ablution facilities are clean. What more could we ask for?

Having unhitched the van, we took ‘The Beast’ and headed for a look around town. As it turns out, we had seen the majority on our way through earlier. Halls Creek originally made its name as a result of a minor gold rush, but is now not much more than a remote little outpost town, surviving predominantly on the passing tourist and trucking trade.

We got out on foot for a look through the promising looking, but eventually disappointing supermarket. For the most part, bread and meat share the same shelf in the freezer, although you can at least get your kangaroo tail with the skin on or with the skin off. Either way, it too is frozen though.

The butchers at least stocked fresh meat, but nothing that took our fancy, although I didn’t enquire as to the availability of fresh roo tails. Apart from soup, I don’t even want to imagine how else you could prepare these things anyway.

Also in the strip of shops lining the main street is a bottle shop, which due to alcohol restrictions can sell nothing that contains more than 2.7% alcohol. That means that take away liquor is limited to light beer. If you want anything heavier, it must essentially accompany a meal at the hotel.

Around the corner, just off of the main street is a tin shed that proclaims to be a variety store. We didn’t look in, but given the signage out the front that proudly declares that guns, ammo and toys are all available within its hallowed walls, an eclectic mixture of goods would I imagine be on offer.

Bit of everything available here.

Towards the end of the main street, was the demure little information centre, at which we hoped to get some information relevant to tomorrows activities. Printed literature was in short supply, while the friendly chap behind the desk tried his best to answer our queries. Another traveller, who overheard our questions, ended up providing us with the answers we sought however.

With our tour of town over as soon as it had started, we drove a few kays out of town to take in what is known as ‘The China Wall’. According to the tourism brochure, this is “a sub-vertical quartz vein protruding up to 6 metres from the surrounding surface”. In simple speak, it’s a line of white rock that does indeed rise up from the surrounding area, in the vision of a man made rock wall that is found at the end of a rough and rocky 4X4 track. Wow.

China Wall.

Returning to the van, we spent the remainder of the afternoon luxuriating in the air conditioned comfort. I even got time to upload a few more pics to our family album on Flickr. Don’t forget to check them out.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.