We ventured back into the Kakadu National Park again today, to make the most of the time we have here. Our plan was to have a slightly shorter day today than yesterday, by taking in some of the sights that are nearer to the end of the park to where we are staying.

So we were off to see Gunlom Falls, which has been recommended to us by a number of people now. Only 40 something kilometres from the caravan park, we expected to have a quick drive in, have a look around, then either delve further into Kakadu again, or turn for home. What we didn’t expect was for the supposed good dirt access road into the falls, to degenerate into a rocky, bouncy 4WD track that required careful negotiation at slow speed. We managed to cover the first 30KM from the van in about 30 minutes. It took us another ½ hour to cover the final 14KM stretch to the carpark, as our speed dropped to slower than walking pace, such was the condition of the track. It had better be worthwhile, was all I could think when we finally managed to arrive.

There are two walks available from here, both of which we planned to tackle. We decided to give the longer of the two a shot first. Described varyingly as either 1 or 2 kilometres return, depending on which publication you chose to believe, all of the literature indicated that it featured a steep, but moderate climb as it led to the upper reaches of the falls.

The view up.

Looking up from the starting point, there didn’t seem to be any obvious way through the forest and up what looked like a sheer cliff face. As we began the ascent, we found a barely discernable path through the trees and up through the rocks. Clambering over the hot rocks, worn smooth from the countless pairs of feet that have trudged this very path before us, we were soon drenched in sweat from the exertion of the climb. If this was what is known around these parts as a ‘moderate’ climb, I would detest to see what a difficult climb entails. I was still thinking that it had better be worthwhile.

It was a slow climb, but we finally made it to the summit, where several pools of cold, clear water greeted us, as it made its way over the edge of the cliff. Officially, the only safe place to swim in Kakadu is the pool at the Crocodile Holiday Inn at Jabiru, due to the persistent risk of natural waterways being inhabited by crocodiles. Unofficially, these beautiful pools that were spread out before us were advertised as an ideal spot to take a refreshing dip.

The view down.

As we slipped into the fresh water, I decided that it had all indeed been worthwhile. Swimming in the pool closest to the edge, was like being in an infinity pool. The water just seemed to drop away, leaving you staring out at the horizon. It felt like you were sitting right on the edge of the world, as the water streamed past you, although it did only drop a short distance to a lower level, before finally flowing off of the edge of the precipice and heading rapidly back towards ground level.

She’s on the edge.

The whole thing was picture perfect. The sun glimmering off the crystal clear water, creating swirling patterns on the sandy bottom. The mesmerising tinkle of water dribbling over the rocks, splashing into the lower pools. The soft rustling of tree branches, swaying gently in the breeze. It was sheer unadulterated perfection.

Pools of perfection.

After the demanding walk up the flank of the escarpment to reach this spot, wallowing about in the cool water was the perfect reward. In the back of my mind though, was the thought that we still had to make our way back down again, which promised to be even more arduous than getting up here in the first place.

Eventually, we could put it off no longer, so we dragged ourselves out of the water and prepared for the descent. As we had expected, scrambling back down was a tougher task than getting up. Care had to be taken with our footing, so as not to tumble down, while muscles we didn’t even know existed, began to protest their unanticipated call to duty. It didn’t help that we carefully negotiated a particularly steep section, only to find that we had deviated off course, and had to climb back up again to rejoin the poorly marked track.

It may have been only ½ an hour, but it was a grueling ½ hour trek to make it back to the starting point, where we triumphantly gazed back towards the top of the falls. We had made it, and yep, it was most definitely worth the effort.

The second walk in contrast, was a hardly noteworthy stroll along a boardwalk to the plunge pool at the foot of the falls. Not as refreshing or as relaxing as the upper pools, we only waded in knee deep, keeping a very close eye out for the fresh water crocodiles that are known to inhabit the pool. While they are not known to be particularly menacing or perilous to humans, I don’t think I would enjoy sharing a pond in close proximity to one.

Invigorated and exhausted all at the same time, we suddenly realised that three hours had elapsed since we had arrived. How time flies when you’re having so much fun. With a harsh, hour long drive ahead of us, we decided to call it quits for the day, and head for home though.

The road out hadn’t improved, although at least we were able to get the worst out of the way at the beginning. If we weren’t bouncing about, along what looked to be dry, rocky bottomed creek beds, we were being shaken like a cocktail as we encountered mile after mile of bone jarring corrugations. Admirably, ‘The Beast’ handled everything we threw at it, but it didn’t mean we had the required energy to explore the park any further today. Nope, it was positively time to return to the van for a late lunch and a well deserved afternoon nap. We will be back again tomorrow, to do it all over again though.

Until next time, stay safe, have fun and don’t forget to write.